Tag Archives: Used & Vintage Clothing

What’s on the mannequin?

My in-progress projects have various states of being:

  • Folded on the sewing table with pins in place
  • Folded in a bag or crate, no pins, and likely out of sight (possibly forgotten until next year)
  • Hanging on the dress form/mannequin

My primary active project tends to hold the coveted mannequin spot, and right now it is modeling part of a Halloween costume I am making for a friend.  I cut up a jacket from Value Village to mimic a Victorian-era (-ish) bolero or cropped jacket. Notice the lace sleeve? Eventually it will look less like a bad band uniform and more like a victim of Jack the Ripper.

Beneath the surgically-enhanced jacket is the muslin for an underbust corset (Simplicity Pattern 1819). I will use the muslin as the corset’s interior lining down the road. Once I finish this costume, which also uses Simplicity 1819 for a skirt pattern (short version), I want to spend some time discussing the merits and drawbacks of this pattern. It seems like a lot of people are using it for Steampunk costumes, but the costume itself has only been reviewed a couple times online.

Already I’ve found that I can comfortably use a corset pattern one size smaller than what is recommended on the back of the envelope. This is consistent with my previous Simplicity pattern experiences. We’ll have to see what happens with the skirt.

Costume Notes

Today the costuming gods shined down on me while on a quick trip to Buffalo Exchange.

I found a gorgeous velvet dress ($13) that, with a few alternations, will form the base of a Full Metal Alchemist costume—the Lust Homunculus. The lace sleeves will be removed, but they will not go to waste. I am helping a frield with a “victorian era” Halloween costume and she has requested black lace sleeves for her jacket. Two birds, one dress.

Fabric Alchemy: a denim skirt

Sewing is like a puzzle. No. Wait. Sewing is like putting together a LEGO set.

You can follow the instructions to build the pirate ship or the castle pictured on the front of the box. Or, you can take creative liberties and construct something a little different. Or you can take apart the castle and the pirate ship and combine the pieces into something COMPLETELY unique.

I think this is why I enjoy sewing so much. Each project is a problem that needs solving.

Problem: I needed (yes, needed) a denim skirt that fit and could be paired with either casual or slightly ”nicer” outfits.

But despite there being a plethora of denim skirts available from most major retailers, I try not to buy *new* clothes anymore, remember?  Instead I periodically perused the racks at Goodwill, Buffalo Exchange, and Crossroads Trading Co.  Even though I found a decent number of used denim skirts for sale, I always felt a little bit like Goldilocks.

  • This one is too big…
  • This one is too small…
  • This one is too edgy/deconstructed/wrong color…
  • This one…is not worth $30 (used)

Solution: Buy a skirt that is *close* and alter it. 

On a trip to Crossroads in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood, I found this:

Decent enough, but did not look good on me.

The denim fabric (more accurately a chambray) was a thickness and weight that would lend itself well to a business-casual pencil skirt style. The gray knit shirt that was attached to this dress, well, I was willing to look past it. In its original form, the waist band of the denim skirt[dress] rested at my natural waist. When I bought this for $7, I imagined that it would be an easy alternation (1. remove the top, 2. wear the skirt).

With my trusty seam ripper, I dispatched with the gray top and tried the skirt on as-was. The gathered aspect of the skirt at the waist looked nice on the dress form, but it had too much volume for my body type and did not pair well with my existing wardrobe.

After brainstorming, I settled on a pencil skirt design, based on the skirt sloper I made during my summer sewing class.

Process: Seam rip, cut, and resew.

I detached the waistband, ironed out the gathers at the top of the skirt. With the skirt side seams still in place, I cut a panel from the front and the back. The lines were determined by the placement of the dart/princess seams on my skirt sloper, in order for the skirt to fit my hips and waist. Based on a skirt made from this sloper, I wanted the hem to have a 19-inch circumference.

(Secret: I opted for the princess seams because this particular alteration would be faster than ripping out the side seams, darts would have been needed to adjust the waist line anyway, and the seams add variation. Also, the side seams already had a place for the side zipper.)

The newly cut panels were re-sewn along the cut lines. Some adjustments were made to the princess seams and side seams at the waist until the skirt fit better. The length of the skirt was not altered.

I wanted a thinner waistband, so I folded it in half. Now that the skirt sit at my hips, rather than at my natural waist, the waistband came up a bit short. To hide this, I stitched some of the scraps together to create a chevron design for a button tab at the left hip. This also hides the bright red zipper (I lost track of the gray zipper that came with the dress).

All done!

Now I own a denim skirt that meets my overly-specific criteria.

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Me-Made May ’12 Recap

I’ve been keeping to my Me-Made May ’12 pledge (at least two handmade items worn each week), but I was slammed by a week-long cold/flu/ear infection and then a second week of frantically trying to catch up on work and on sewing. I’ve only just regained the mental clarity and time required to write a blog post.

A quick recap:

May 1: Floral tunic (Simplicity 2262) w/ jeans and a gently-used apple green corduroy blazer (Theory, shown in May 19 photo below) that I picked up at Goodbyes, a SF consignment store. I made this tunic last year out of a baby bolt of cotton quilting fabric, so the fabric does not drape well. Colorwise, it fits with my default palette: Greens, Blues, and Browns (& grays)…what I like to refer to as my PNW palette. I made it when I was still figuring out commercial pattern sizes, so I had to elmininate at least 2 inches on each side seam, then it shrank (apparently I forgot to prewash the fabric) and now I feel happier with it. It was the only clean me-made garment on the morning of May 1.

May 3: I still hadn’t done laundry, so I wore a hand-knit scarf (yes a warm scarf) all day because it was rainy and cold (thank you, Seattle).

May 8: This butterfly dress (worn over leggings and boots) is one of the first garments I made in late high school. I used one of my mom’s sewing patterns from the 1960s. The fabric was allegedly brought back from India as a gift for my grandma, and then given to my mom who gave it to me. I still have some in my stash. I love the butterflies, and its brightness, but it really doesn’t go with ANYTHING in my wardrobe. It never has. I am thinking about altering it: cut back the sleeves, move the elastic lower so it is at my natural waist. This baby doll dress makes me look too young.

May 12: Hooray for doing laundry. I wore my maroon knit shirt (Simplicity 2261, blogged about here) with khakis for a day’s adventure on the Seattle Waterfront. I ended the evening at the Seattle Sounders soccer game and discovered I had inadvertently worn the colors of opposing team (Real Salt Lake City). Next time I need to do some pre-game research.

May 13: Hooray for warm weather! While I was sick, I finished turning a gray pair of jersey gaucho pants into a skirt. I resewed the inseams and cut off 4 inches from the hem. I ended up wearing this skirt multiple times this week (at work and at home) because it was so comfortable.

May 19: I finished my gray bedsheet, button up pintuck blouse in time for my mom’s visit to Seattle. This New Look Pattern 6104 is available in sizes 10-22, so it was a little loose around the neck line. I may need to learn how to grade down patterns for future uses of the pattern. Even though the sleeves have some pleats, they fit well under a cardigan. I used buttons from my grandma’s collection.

And now I am out of completed Me-Made garments. I do have four pieces in progress, hopefully I can finish them before the month ends.

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Fabric Alchemist: A Pants to Shirt Transmutation

During my final college years, I bought a couple pairs of those comfy (and trendy) jersey gaucho pants. I only got a couple uses out of them before the trend died out. And I didn’t have the height to make the pants look good. They are meant to hit below the knee and they almost touch my ankles. Even so, I have never given away the pants because the material was so soft.

Last night I began to breath new life into the brown pair. I ripped out the crotch seam and part of the inseam to make the collar of a shirt.

It needs some general structuring, particularly tightening up the side seams under the arms. And I want to do something with the front center seam (perhaps some ruching) to hide what used to be the crotch seam.

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Continue reading Part 2 of this fabric alchemy project.

Link

Posted today in the Shopping section of Seattle Times online:

Goodwill’s Glitter Sale is next weekend (Nov 12 and 13), located at the Dearborn St. store in Seattle.

Seattle Goodwill Community Learning Center
1400 S. Dearborn St.
Seattle WA 98144

It will be crowded, but maybe you’ll find that perfect [previously-owned] holiday-season outfit or accessory! More information and examples of what you might find are available here or click the title of this post. Happy thrifting!

Something old, something lace

It was a long search (far longer than I care to admit), but I finally found a bridesmaid dress for my friend’s summer wedding!

The bride provided three criteria for the dresses:

1) Knee length
2) light neutral in color (champagne, gold, light gray, etc.)
3) and it must have some kind of lace

Beyond these criteria, the bride encouraged us to find something that fit out personal style.

In light of my sustainable year, I had to add another set of criteria (organic, recycled, or local). At times I wished that I had done the shopping last year, to save myself the extra challenge.

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