Tag Archives: Fabric

Fur_clothing_1903

Friday Follow: The Good Closet

Taking a page from Twitter’s Friday Follow (#ff), every fourth Friday I will share with you a blog I am following. Featured blogs will eventually be listed in the right-hand column.

I first stumbled onto Elizabeth Cline’s writing through her column on the Etsy.com blog. Her “History of a Cheap Dress” explored the explosion of apparel options over time. Consumers (in this case, explicitly women) went from making their own clothing to having access to mass-produced goods. We are now able to stuff our closets with clothing, but Elizabeth Cline asks “at what cost?”

Explosion of Fashion (From Etsy Blog, Illustration by Lena Corwin)

Overall, Elizabeth Cline’s column for Etsy, her Tumbler blog (The Good Closet), and upcoming book seek to explore “the global impact of fast fashion [and] how to dress ethically (and fashionably) on a budget.” (She also writes about ”cheap chic fabrics” and the cultural and economic forces that put us into blue jeans). I like that her blog focuses on the environmental and the social/labor issues behind the fashion industry. I do wish that her blog posts had a few more “citations” so I could delve deeper into some topics, but maybe her book will have a list of additional references and resources to help us be more conscious consumers.

The blue jeans and t-shirts article reminded me of an article we read in an anthropology class, about the history of fabric. Most of the academic details are gone, but I remember that England had a trade deficit because luxurious and color fabrics from the East were imported, overpowering the local textile market. Black was pushed as a “fashionable” and “good” color in England because the English were very good at dying wool black. The powers-that-be portrayed the luxurious and colorful silks and velvets as decadent, sinful, and just plain undesirable.

Being an archaeologist, I really appreciate her exploration of material culture and the behind-the-scene forces. I’ve seen those old Sears & Roebuck catalogs, full of all kinds of pre-made goods that you can buy from a distance. When people were making all of their possessions, they had a greater investment in the items. They were more likely to try to repair the item and if they moved, they were more likely to take their most valued possessions with them…leaving less for us archaeologists to find. But think about your last move. How much stuff did you donate or throw away? How much of that was clothing? How much (and what) did you really take with you to your new home?

If you are looking for a short and interesting read this weekend, take a moment to read Elizabeth Cline’s thoughts at http://thegoodcloset.tumblr.com/ and her Etsy Blog posts.

Featured image: Fur Clothing 1903. By H. Kirstein, Leipzig [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

From my grandma's sewing stash to mine

Reuse and Repurpose Discarded Fabrics

When I started sewing I asked some friends where they shopped for fabric. They gave me the names of a few locally-owned fabric shops, but they also suggested Goodwill, where you can pick up previously owned sheets, curtains, and other linens for a few dollars.

WOW, they were right. I found king sheets for $5, which is more than enough for a dress or costume and a ridiculous deal when you compare a similar woven cotton fabric would be at least $7 per yard. The corset I made for halloween used fabric from one of the king sheets I bought at Goodwill. I hope to use the rest of it for a skirt for either a Renaissance or Steampunk dress. You can be Scarlett O’Hara and dress yourself in old curtains for days.

The deals can be too good sometimes and I forget that I live in a small place, where storage is at a premium. It is so easy to justify a $4 or $6 dollar bundle of fabric.

You can also take discarded clothes and redesign them. I personally have not yet tried turning an old shirt into something new, but I can see from the internet and sewing books that there are a number of options. As a woman, it is easy to take a larger men’s shirt and cut it down for a dress or tunic. Search the internet for ways to use old sweaters or old button up shirts.

By choosing to use previously used fabrics you are reducing the demand for new fabric production, which can involve a lot of unsavory chemicals in the fiber manufacturing and dying processes.

P.S. Outlet Stores: This tip is not specifically about sustainable fabrics. However, the local fabric chain that I often shop at here in Seattle (Pacific Fabrics) has one location in SODO that carries out-of-season fabrics that didn’t sell AND rolls of fabrics from the factories that make clothes for Ann Taylor, or J. Jill, and a few other clothing chains. So…if you always love the fabrics used by Ann Taylor for pants, but just can’t stomach the mass-produced clothing culture, take a look at fabric outlet stores. You might find that same fabric, at a slight discount, to make your own pants or suit.

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Too much fabric, not enough ideas: HELP!

December 2011 is quickly becoming my most productive crafting and sewing month to date, but I can’t tell you about it. I have to maintain a position of silence and secrecy or else Christmas morning surprises will be ruined. RUINED, I SAY! I can’t even show you some of the awesome fabric I am using because that is part of the surprise. I am, however, taking photos of everything as I complete the projects and promise a post-Christmas show and tell.

In the meantime, I could use your opinions and ideas regarding some other fabrics. Over the turkey weekend, two creative women in my life (my mom and my boyfriend’s mom) bestowed upon me a small truckload of fabric. My fabric stash has increased at least four-fold. I have corduroys, old curtains, and a few printed wovens from my grandmothers’ fabric stashes. The colors and patterns cover a wide spectrum and while I have a few ideas, I don’t want to let these fabrics sit unused. (Mostly because my organized boyfriend will pester me about the space the fabric bags are occupying.

Whenever I say "corduroy" all I can think of is the children's book about the toy bear

From my mom I took home six corduroy remnants. Only four are shown here (the other two are variations of the pink and blue colors). I will probably use the dusty rose for a skirt. I don’t think I have enough of the other colors of an article of clothing, but certainly enough for a project.

Any suggestions?

A blast from my sewing past

I also brought back with me remnants of my first sewing projects. During high school I made a messenger bag with the navy woven fabric and dresses out of the red floral and blue/green butterfly woven prints.

This blue floral pattern was from my mom’s mom’s fabric stash. I remember her wearing a button up shirt in this design late in her life. It hasn’t really occurred to me that she made it for herself, and I am puzzled and sad that I didn’t actively consider her sewing habits. She did teach me how to knit and embroider. And I spent hours playing in button drawer of her sewing desk. But I never asked about sewing.

I would like to make a shirt from this fabric, because in my head it is a shirt-fabric. Any favorite [woven] shirt patterns you could recommend? Maybe a short-sleeve button up?

From my grandma's sewing stash to mine

This beige patterned woven will probably be used as a lining for something. Maybe a laptop bag for the new laptop I will get AFTER I pay off all my student loans. Whenever that will be. It reminds me of the desert, which reminds me of archaeology. (In this scenario, it is an Egypt-centric, Indiana Jones archaeology that I think of.) Or Frank Herbert’s Dune.

The only thing that doesn't fear an Arakis storm...

I am reminded of ceramic dishes, in a good way.

I picked up another blue floral fabric from my mom’s mom’s fabric stash, and a couple yards of gray wool from my dad’s mom’s fabric stash. I am going to try to turn the grey wool into a medieval dress for future costume events. But I am always open to other ideas. I could easily see this blue lightweight woven as a lining for a wool tote or handbag.

The wool feels a little heavy for pants, although it might be doable. Certainly it feels too lightweight to make a warm wool coat. Maybe a fall/spring jacket? Feel free to suggest any patterns you like.

Not sure what is "irregular" about this wool

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My boyfriend’s mom had just done some redecorating and had a few left-over curtains. One is a microsuede, one is a sheer white material, one is a striped iridescent coral and pink fabric, and the blue floral is apparently “chintz.” I do not know what chintz is, aside from her warning that the sheen in the fabric would wash out. She thought I might be able to use these for costumes. I can see the start of a Steampunk dress (either of the colored curtains) and a medieval/high-fantasy tunic or vest (the beige microsuede).

When you look these, what do you see?